Oh how we laughed at our chinglish itinerary euphemising today’s driving as ‘dancing on the roads’. To be fair, it was a little bit like break dancing (and being beaten up at the same time), but that’s where the euphemism ended. The tiny road wound around and around some stunning mountains, but also trafficked enormous lorries and the occasional suicidal maniac taking blind corners at speed and trying to avoid the toll roads. At about 6pm we were still about 230km from our destination and started to look for somewhere to camp.

The problem was the road was cut into the side of the mountains, so nowhere was flat. Just as everyone was starting to get over the dancing, we came to massive lake – but even down the dirt tracks, we couldn’t get to it. As we drove around, we realised it was a dam, and the dam wall provided a perfect flat surface for camping. It was nearly dark, and we had no other good ideas, so Yingchu bounded off to ask the dam security guard if we could pitch up on his wall, to which he happily obliged; our first dam chinese camping experience...